Chemistry Board Project CLASS 12 CBSE PAINTS PIGMENTS POSTER COLOURS. To Prepare Pigments and Poster Paints Using Various Chemicals. This is to certify that Pujit Singh Of XII-C Has accomplished this project entitled: To Prepare Pigments And Poster Paints Using Various Chemicals And Reagents.
To get started making oil paint, you’ll need:
1) Cold-pressed, raw, or unrefined linseed oil – Linseed oil tends to do much of the heavy lifting in many oil based paint formulations. The reason is that unlike most plant based oils, linseed oil is known as a drying oil. For example, if you were to spill some olive oil on your countertop, chances are it would still be wet to the touch many weeks later. Linseed oil is different in that if you were to spill some on your counter, it would dry to form a tough film within a few days.
While you’ll be able to find linseed oil at most artist supply shops, you can also find it at the grocery store as flax seed oil. Despite what the fancy artist paint brands say, flax oil from your grocery store is generally just as good as the product they sell. Just be sure that your flax oil is pure oil, as some brands are enriched with extra ground up bits of flax seed.
2) Pigment – Pigment can be found online, or at most artist supply stores. In this Instructable, I’ll be using the pigment Ultramarine Blue.
Ultramarine has been around for eons, and until synthetic versions of it were produced in the 1800s, it used to be among the most expensive pigments available to painters, where it was used to represent virtue, holiness, and despite its high cost, humility.
Ultramarine is also generally considered to be quite safe. While you can use almost any pigment you want with this recipe, keep in mind that many pigments are very toxic and may contain high amounts of lead, chromium and other nasty chemicals you don’t want to be breathing in. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the pigments you’re intending to use, and take appropriate safety measures.
3) Refined beeswax – Beeswax acts as both an emulsifier which helps the pigment stick to the linseed oil, and as a thixotropic agent which will help keep the pigment evenly disbursed throughout our paint, and prevent it from settling to the bottom of our container.
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You can find beeswax at most craft stores, and it comes in either blocks or tiny pellets called prills. Either option will work just fine, but in this Instructable I’ll be using prilled beeswax since it tends to be a bit easier to melt. Just make sure you’re not using unrefined beeswax (the yellow stuff) as it will add impurities to your paint.
In this recipe, beeswax will make up about 2% of our oil base. However, depending on the pigment you choose to use, you may want to experiment with adding slightly more or less beeswax based on how readily your pigment absorbs the linseed oil. For example, with some pigments, such as flake white, you may find that beeswax isn’t even necessary at all to achieve your preferred paint consistency. But, with pigments such as Ultramarine Green, you may need up to 4% bees wax to keep the paint from feeling too “stringy.”
Helpful Tools:
1) Mortar and pestle – While many commercial pigments are already ground up to a very fine powder, some natural pigments may be very clumpy. In these cases, a mortar and pestle can help you prepare the pigment for grinding.
2) Muller and glass slab – A muller is a special tool used to grind pigments into a carrier such as linseed oil. Glass is used most often because it’s not porous and easy to clean. If you don’t have a muller, improvise! I’ve had luck using the flat side of a piece of glass tile for example, or you could even use your palette knife.
3) Pallet knife and spatula – We’ll be using a palette knife to help mix our paint. A simple silicon spatula can also be helpful in cleaning up, or transferring finished paint to a tube.
4) Scale – It’s handy to either own or borrow a scale that you can use for measuring out your oil paint ingredients. This becomes especially important for keeping track of any changes you make to the recipe!
5) Safety equipment – You’ll want to keep pigments off of your skin and out of your eyes. At the very least, you will also want to wear a simple dust mask. Remember: if you want to work with some of the more toxic pigments, you will need to use a more substantial respirator.
Paint pigments are dry powders, added to base paint mediums to create any color imaginable for application to the surface of your choice. The base mediums are liquids that act as a carrier for the paint pigments, providing a liquid to spread the pigment across a surface and bind it there. Unlike a dye, paint pigments do not dissolve into the medium, instead it disperses throughout the liquid, remaining as small particles. To get an equal level of dispersal, the pigment must first be mixed into a solution that combines with the medium easily. This prevents clumping of the pigments which would otherwise create unevenly colored paints.
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Mix the pigment in a solution of equal parts water and methyl alcohol until you form a paste of the mixture for adding pigments to water-based painting mediums. Use a clean, wooden stirrer to mix the pigments. Make certain the mix is evenly colored throughout, as this is an indication that the pigment is full disbursed and ready for use.
Mix the pigments with a solvent of the same amount if adding to an oil-based, alcohol-based or solvent-based painting medium instead; using the solvent that’s compatible with the particular medium you have in mind.
Combine different pigments to achieve a color mix, using ready-made formulas, or experimenting with mixing ratios yourself to achieve the color desired. Maintain the overall pigment to solvent or water ratios when mixing though, to make it easier to combine the finished pigment mix with the paint medium.
Pour the paint medium base that you intend to use into a jar, clear or white base is best for gaining the full effect of the added pigments. Linseed oil serves as a base for oil painting, or use an acrylic medium for paints you can thin with water.
Add the pigment mixture to the base medium, mixing the two with the wooden stirrer until completely mixed. Examine the paint mix for any streaking or concentrations of color, then continue mixing until all signs of color differentiation in the mixture are gone. Use the mixed paint as soon as possible, or cap the paint jar tightly for later paint usage.